Saturday, November 16, 2013

Leaving Hilton Head Island and getting blown away at Fernandina Beach

November 9-15, 2015
Summerfield, Florida
Southern Oaks RV Resort



Since my last post, we wrapped up our one-week stay at Hilton Head Island and headed south to Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island, Florida.  We had quite the social time during our last three days at Hilton Head. The resort had a plethora of activities going on since it was a semi-annual event they call owner’s week. On Friday night, they had a free wine and beer tasting which we enjoyed. A local distributor brought in a several wines to taste and the beer tasting included about twelve beers which were full bottles loaded in coolers.  Vic was a little disappointed as he wanted to taste a few different beers, but did not want to drink three bottles.  I stuck with the wine and was quite happy as they had Washington and Oregon wines in the line-up.  The park provided cheese and fruit trays on each round table. We sat and visited with some folks we had met earlier in the week. Very pleasant.

After the wine tasting, I devised a plan to go to a restaurant a fellow blogger, Suzi of Beluga’s excellent adventure told us about: Charlie’s L’etoile Verte. We had ridden our bikes past the place and it reminded me of my mom’s restaurant in Upper Michigan.  I discovered they have a bar with a happy hour menu—one of our favorite tricks for enjoying food for less at a higher end restaurant. The place was packed but there was a two-top near the bar that had just vacated. Lucky us. They have an extensive wine list and all wines by the glass were half price. Score. We ordered she-crab soup, seafood quiche, and broiled scallops on mixed greens. The food was excellent and we loved the bar atmosphere which was like being in someone’s living room. The best part of the night, though, was meeting a delightful couple who sat near us at the bar. They were locals who lived here since the 1980s who also had a motorhome.  We learned even more about the area from them, and the surprise of the night was having them invite us to their favorite place on the island for Sunday brunch. How sweet. 

On Saturday morning, there was a craft fair around the pool and a seafood and produce stand in the parking lot. I bought some fresh grouper and shrimp from the seafood guy and admired the jewelry some ladies in the park had for sale. Our plans for the afternoon were to spend it on the beach. It was a little chilly but sunny with highs in the 60s.  It felt great just to relax, read, and people watch, of course.  I also saw my first horseshoe crab (shell). They sure are big.



We were surprised how few people were on the beach during a lovely Saturday afternoon.

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I looked for shells, one of my favorite pastimes, but never came up with any of these featured in the poster below. Some young kids I checked in with found sand dollars, surf clams, and cockles on this Atlantic Beach.



That evening we had tickets for another park event: dinner from a local Cajun restaurant, Kenny B's, followed by entertainment from a live band with dancing.  What a fun time. The food was good, but we enjoyed the three-piece band named Target even more. They played music from the 50-70s with audience participation and lots of corny senior citizen jokes. We danced a fair amount too. Vic liked the band so much he even bought a CD. Now we can dance to them in the motorhome. Ha.





Sunday was another full day. First we had our brunch date with our new friends, Grayson and Glenda, at Palmetto Bay Sunrise Café. We never would have discovered this fantastic café on our own, yet it happened to be only about two miles from the resort. When we arrived, there was a half-hour waiting list, but Glenda had connections and speeded it along.  Excellent food again. They are known for their variety of eggs benedict dishes and their shrimp hash—which I had (never can get enough seafood for this girl). It was quite a delight to get to know them a little better. It turns out we will be in the Keys at the same time, so we look forward to another get together then.



After our big breakfast, we were ready to go for an extended bike ride which included meeting up with Janie and John of Flamingo on a Stick at Coligny Beach, about a two-mile ride from the park, with plans to ride down the beach. I, however, had forgot to check the tide table as bike reading on the beach is not too accessible at high tide. Oops. It was about a half hour past high tide.



Plan B turned out to be driving with them to see the Harbour Town Lighthouse on Hilton Head Island. The lighthouse is located in a section of HH called the Sea Pines. This turned out to be our least favorite part of HH as it is a gated area where they charge you $5 to enter.  We were actually told we could not enter the area at all because of the kayaks on our car.  They rent them there and don’t allow you to bring your own—never mind that we were not planning to kayak there. Janie and John were told they could not enter with their bikes mounted on the truck for the same reason—they rent bikes. Oh, please. In spite of these restrictions, we decided to lock our bikes up at the beach and go in their truck to see the lighthouse. Much to our dismay, we were told by the gate guard that the price for a vehicle with more than one axle is $25 (they have a dually truck), but he gave us a break and only charged us the $5 admission. This situation did not sit well with us either, but we proceeded to the lighthouse.

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The lighthouse turned out to be part of a shopping area and marina, with an exclusive golf course along the shore. Not exactly what we pictured, but we walked around and checked it off our sightseeing list.  We headed back to the beach for a beer together before seeing them off at dusk on their way back to Savannah. Too bad we didn’t get a chance to ride together, but we sure appreciated getting together again as we only just met them a couple weeks ago at Petersburg Campground.

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On Veteran’s Day, we left Hilton Head Island (sniff-sniff) and drove about four hours south to Fort Clinch at Fernandina Beach. This time we did better research on-line for accessibility and were able to book a beach front site for five days. It was, however, a bit of a challenge driving in on their two-mile canopied drive.  We pretty much had to stay in the middle of the road to avoid tree branches.



We had never been to this area before.  I thought it would be interesting to check out as it is advertised as “the real Florida.”  Our first day here we rode our bikes just a couple miles within the park to the Fort itself. It is supposed to be one of the best preserved 19th century forts in the country. Hard for us to compare as we haven’t been to many, but it was the best we had seen, and definitely worth the $2.00 admission. 

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Another highlight of our first day here was seeing a nuclear submarine be escorted past the beach near us to the Inland Waterway. They sure had a lot of boats surrounding it as part of the security. Impressive.





On our second day, we took a drive around Amelia Island to check it out and run some errands. The historic buildings and homes were impressive, but much of the retail areas looked pretty tired. We may not have checked out the right places. My intention was to do more research on the area and spend some time on the beach the next day, but that night the cold front moved into Florida with wind gusts of 50 mph at the beach. What a night! Fortunately, we did not have to worry about trees falling on us as we only had a few palm trees nearby, but the slide toppers were flapping so hard we thought they might be shredded.






At about 2 a.m., we finally decided to put the slides in—a first for us. The whole motorhome was being buffeted by the winds. The poor dogs were practically under the covers, shivering with fear as the noises in the back bedroom were so loud.

When morning came, the winds had died down to about 35 mph gusts. Vic suggested we leave as now we were experiencing a sandstorm and gale force wind warnings were through late that evening. I was surprised to learn that the Reserve America policy is to refund your total camp fees--after you stay for the first day of your reservation. We were both disappointed to be leaving as we had plans to kayak, fish, and walk the beaches; instead, we drove about 150 miles southwest to a park near The Villages three days earlier than planned.

We are now at Southern Oaks RV Resort in Summerfield, Florida. This is a pretty basic Passport America park that we have stayed at before as it is across the street from friends of my mom’s whom I have known since the late 60s. Also, my oldest brother lives about a half hour away in Dunnellon, so we will have a chance to visit him while we are here as well. It is a rainy day here in Central Florida and we are going to go listen to live music at a wine bar in The Villages tonight.  Somebody has to do it. . . . Roll on.

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

A daytrip to Pat Conroy’s Lowcountry


November 6, 2013
Hilton Head Island, S.C.
Hilton Head Island Motorcoach Resort



I first learned about Beaufort, South Carolina through reading one of our favorite authors. Pat Conroy.  An area called the Lowcountry, a geographic and cultural region located along South Carolina's coast, is the setting for most of his works: The Great Santini, Prince of Tides, and Lords of Discipline (based on his experience attending The Citadel, a well-known South Carolina military college in Charleston).  When we were in Charleston for the first time two years ago, I was reading one of his more recent novels, South of Broad, which takes place in Charleston. His writing made me feel an affinity for this part of the country long before ever seeing it.




Conroy now lives in Beaufort and is partially responsible for making it such a popular place to visit these days that apparently many tourists return to retire here.(it has made several “most livable small town” lists.) The town was founded in 1711, making it the second oldest settlement in South Carolina, after Charleston. Beaufort has a diverse history with the slave trade, rice, indigo, and sea cotton plantations, shipbuilding, a devastating hurricane, and a boom and bust textile industry as a result of the boll weevil. Another big influence in the area is the close proximity of three military bases at nearby Parris Island: the  Marine Corps recruit training Depot, Marine Corps Air Station (MCAS), and a Naval Hospital.



The South Carolina slave trade (with Charleston at the center) played a large role in the original settlement of the area. Many of these slaves came from West Africa where there was a similar rice-growing industry. The descendants of these slaves are known as Gullah, African Americans who live in the Lowcountry region of South Carolina and Georgia. The name Gullah is believed to come from a mispronunciation of Angola, one of the predominant countries of their origin. The Gullah heritage is an important part of the Lowcountry culture in terms of storytelling, cuisine, music, folk beliefs, crafts, farming and fishing. My favorites are the Gullah creole-based recipes and their sweetgrass baskets.




Beaufort is about an hour and a half drive from Hilton Head. We first drove through the historic part of town and then decided to head further out to Hunting Island another 16 miles to the seacoast. On the way there, I was reading a Southern Living article about Conroy which said his favorite place to take guests for local seafood was The Shrimp Shack, a little place out in the country which is famous for its chowders and shrimp burgers.



There were several cars parked out behind the shack just as the article described, so we thought we had a winner. We were wrong.  The food was absolutely terrible and the place was dirty. We both ordered shrimp burgers and a tomato-based chowder which was almost inedible. I had the feeling we might even get sick after eating there, but thankfully that did not happen. Either Conroy has terrible taste in food or the management has changed. Do not go there!  Beaufort is full of good restaurants and even the little town of St. Helena Island just down the road has at least two restaurants that are supposed to be good: Gullah Grub and Sweetgrass Cafe.



On to Hunting Island. We originally had reservations to stay here, but heard that our site may have been a problem in terms of low clearance and tree branch issues. The park is pretty remote which is part of the draw, to be camping at a natural and more untamed seashore. It is a beautiful place in a haunting sort of way with fallen trees in the water creating a rugged-looking beachfront.



Even the sites have a more natural feel as they are not all lined up in a row; instead, they are tucked into what appears to be a random pattern going in different directions. We saw mostly tents and small trailers, but there were a few motorhomes wedged into various sites. 




The best sites were definitely the ones near the beach front (numbers 1-86). Our site would have been #197 which is way back in the forest. In driving to this loop of the campground, we came upon a motorhome trying to get into a site in the same area with his toad still attached. (Not a good idea at all). While trying to maneuver into the site, he came within inches of two trees smashing his awning up against one of them. Aside from the trees on his right, he would not have been able to clear the overhanging branches either.



Here is a close-up of the awning pressed up against the tree. Ouch.



His wife had been guiding him in and this outcome made her pretty upset. Vic offered to help guide him out of this predicament.  First he unhitched his car, then Vic had him back out every so slowly to avoid doing more damage. The driver said he just felt sick to his stomach. I would too. We have had our closest calls in state parks and have also run into trouble with our reserved sites being unfit for our MH due to low branches or unlevel grounds. We have also had some fabulous sites at state parks. Ideally, it pays to do some firsthand research.  Watching this incident, however, confirmed our decision to not stay at this park unless we had one of these more open beachfront sites.



We did like the beach and especially the freedom the dogs would have there. This kind of a stay just requires more of a camping state of mind by bringing plenty of food, firewood, and bug spray. We tend to be drawn to less remote camping with urban conveniences nearby and the luxury of full hook-ups—although a good campfire can trump all those amenities for me.





Our main plan for the afternoon was to spend time in Beaufort walking around the waterfront and the historic downtown area. The park along the water was quite lovely complete with swings, rocking chairs, and a beautifully landscaped picnic area with an outdoor stage.





We also enjoyed checking out the marina with its variety of pleasure boats, sailboats, fishing charters, and shrimp boats. It looks like Beaufort has a thriving waterfront industry. 





Somewhat to our surprise, the shops downtown were pretty high-end, especially the art galleries, jewelry stores, and clothing shops. There must be a fair amount of money (coming from Charleston?) in these parts. It seemed like the split was between the wealthy and the poor, with not much in-between.  Perhaps an over-generalization on my part. . . .





Appreciating the Lowcountry takes a different kind of sensibility. Conroy says many people who visit him think the area behind his home is ugly at low tide, but he describes it this way: “It's when small animals come out to eat. Low tide is for the little creatures. But they have to be quick. High tide comes in with a rush, roaring up the creek. It's simply amazing to watch nature in action. The drama of how it all unfolds is the history of life and the sea.”



Dusk was coming on as we took a second walk along the waterfront. Our little daytrip gave us an appreciation for the lifestyle of this area with the wildness of the seashore to explore at the state park, the abundance of seafood to enjoy in local eateries (just NOT the Shrimp Shack!), and the allure of living life at a slower pace.

Sunday, November 10, 2013

Getting a little taste of Hilton Head Island


November 4-9, 2013
Hilton Head Island, S.C.
Hilton Head Island Motorcoach Resort

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Our original plans after leaving Petersburg COE Campground in Appling, Georgia were to spend five days near Beaufort at Hunting Island State Park. Beaufort is a place I wanted to see two years ago when we were in this area, but we slid right on by on Interstate 95 leaving it for another time.

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Hunting Island State Park is quite popular so I was lucky enough to get reservations for a 5-day stay. So why are we not there?  Well, I met a fellow camper at Petersburg who is very familiar with Huntington Island SP. He asked me what site I had reserved, Site #197, and he looked at our coach and advised us to either find a different site or make other plans because of the narrow roadways and low overhanging trees. I knew the low number sites were the best (thanks to Sherri of In the Directions of Our Dreams) as most of these are beach front, but figured we would be close enough to enjoy quiet days at this rustic beach.  I got back on-line and watched the YouTube video showing every campsite at the park and the site looked okay to me, albeit quite wooded.  I also called the park to see if we could change sites, but the park was full.  After much discussion with Vic, we decided to pursue another plan which would allow us to see another place we had never been: Hilton Head Island.  We were able to cancel with a minimum fee and still be able to visit Beaufort and Huntington Beach SP on a day trip. 

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Fortunately, our place of choice on the island, Hilton Head Island Motorcoach Resort, was running a 30% off special for first time visitors. The place is still $$$ but we wanted the convenience of being able to ride our bikes on the island’s fifty miles of trails which includes seven miles of beach. (There is another park on the island, Hilton Head Harbor RV Resort and Marina, but it is further out.)  This resort is billed as the first motorcoach resort in the United States, opening in the late 70s.  I believe it is still run by Outdoor Resorts of America. Surprisingly, for its age, it had been well-maintained and updated with a fantastic pool and spa area, clubhouse, and six tennis courts. Most of the sites are privately-owned, then available when unoccupied through the rental pool.  The only restriction to stay here is that you have a Class A or C motorhome at least 18’ in length. 

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We have found this to be a very friendly park with no clear distinction between owners and renters like you sometimes find in other parks. We happened to be here during an annual owner’s week with lots of extra activities and we were highly encouraged to join in. So far we have attended trivia night, a wine and beer tasting, and a Luau dinner. 

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We have really enjoyed learning about what draws people here as I honestly thought it would mostly be golf.  Hardly anyone we have met has been golfers. Vic and I actually had envisioned the island as one big country club with giant golf courses and hotels—not really a place that would appeal to us. We were wrong. First of all, the tropical plants and trees provide a huge canopy over most of the island. There are almost no open areas except the beach itself.  Tucked into this jungle are supposedly nine golf courses, all kinds of fabulous restaurants, gated communities, resorts, and boutique shopping malls, but you can hardly see any of them. Instead what is apparent are the amazing bike trails and maps that guide you to all parts of the island. The city also has free wi-fi throughout and very lovely little parks tucked in to various stops along the trails.

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There are no tall buildings on the island. My guess is they established strict building codes some time ago; as a result, the island seems more like a nature preserve with its lush mix of moss-laden live oaks, palmetto trees, pines, magnolias, oleander, and wax myrtle.

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Another attraction to this place, for some, is that high season occurs in summer—when few of the snowbirds are here. If you can tolerate winter temperatures with highs in the 50s and 60s and lows in the 30s and 40s, then this place with four distinct seasons and a fabulous beach might be a perfect place to retire. Aside from golf, tennis and biking are popular activities on the island. With all the water in the area, boating and fishing are right up there also.  I would have to add, judging by our behavior since we arrived, that eating seafood might be another major pastime.

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Another delightful surprise was learning that dogs are allowed on the beaches. During the summer, they are only allowed on the beach after 5 p.m. on a leash, but after Oct. 31 they can be off-leash anytime if they are under voice control.  Not many places like this left. Even Oregon has a leash law for the beach, but it is not enforced many places. 

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That about wraps up my introduction to Hilton Head Island.  We could easily spend a month here as our 7-day stay is passing way too quickly! ( I am saving our daytrip to Beaufort and Hunting Island for a separate post.)

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